Designer's Job

   Before starting the development of a new model, a designer has to look thoroughly the style of a dress. Lots of peculiarities are under the discussion: silhouette of a model, a kind of zipper, the position of reliefs and other constructive lines of a model. The construction of a drawing is made step by step, successively. Firstly, the constructive lines of stale are put on the drawing, performed in standard, and then on the drawing, made in full size. While developing the complicated styles it is recommended to check out the constructive lines of style according to a person’s body or to sew a dress from the thin cheap cloth. However, mind the following rules: keep the lines’ harmony in a dress; the details must coincide in a form (i.e. oval corners of a collar can repeat themselves on the cuffs, pockets, flappers and the like). The readymade drawings can be changed according to the peculiarities of a figure. To do that a designer measures the figure of a person and compares the drawings. Then decrease or increase the drawing (it depends on the size).
   To transfer the dress’ style lines a designer has to draw horizontal lines of a neck, a chest, a waist, hips on the drawing of an item; then put a vertical line through the middle of the drawing, which is called a net, and then a silhouette of a model, tacks, reliefs, the line of throat, a collar’ line, the place of pockets and so on are defined at least. Drawing the horizontal and vertical lines gives an opportunity of defining the form of a dress, proportions, and the place of a waist line in a model to the figure’s proportion. With help of the net one can correct the place of details. For example, the width of V-cut is defined by the gap between the bottom of the neck and the end of the shoulder by dividing it into parts. It is necessary to define the place of model lines to the main lines.
   The main constructive feature of the front bodice is the upper tucks; they are needed for forming the volume for breasts. The classical tuck is the one that is directed from the shoulder’s cut. The tucks may be open, seen or hidden in relief’s seams, folds, etc. The most common transition of tucks is recess and gore.